The Ranch They Never Have to Leave

The Ranch They Never Have to Leave

At Falula Farm in Bear Lake, Utah, raising the cattle is only part of the job. The fourth- and fifth-generation father and son behind the ranch built their own USDA-inspected processing facility and went back to school to become professional butchers. Today, the same men who raise the cattle are also the ones who process the beef.

Think about that for a minute.

They raise the cattle.

They built the processing facility.

And they're the butchers.

All on the same ranch.

That's a very different path from the one most beef cattle take before they reach your table.

MOST RANCHERS DON'T PROCESS THEIR OWN CATTLE

Raising cattle and processing beef are two completely different businesses.

One requires pastures, feed, water, fencing, equipment and years of experience caring for livestock.

The other requires an entirely different set of skills.

Butchering.

Food safety.

Sanitation.

Specialized equipment.

Coolers and freezers.

Packaging.

Labeling.

Federal regulations.

And, if you're going to sell federally inspected beef across state lines, operating within the USDA inspection system.

That's a lot to take on.

Which is why cattle production and beef processing are generally separate parts of the beef supply chain.

A rancher raises cattle.

Eventually those cattle leave the ranch.

From there, depending on the production system, they may move through other operations before eventually reaching a slaughter and processing facility.

At Falula Farm, they wanted to do things differently.

SO THEY BUILT THEIR OWN

The father-and-son team behind Falula Farm didn't inherit a ready-made processing plant sitting next to the pasture.

They built it themselves.

A state-of-the-art processing facility right on the ranch in Laketown, Utah.

But building the facility was only part of it.

Someone still had to know how to turn an entire beef animal into beautifully cut steaks, roasts, briskets, ground beef and everything else that comes from the carcass.

So they did something we think says a lot about how seriously they took this idea.

They went back to school.

They trained to become professional butchers.

Not because they had stopped being ranchers.

Because they wanted to become the people who could finish what they started.

THE RANCHERS BECAME THE BUTCHERS

There's something pretty remarkable about that.

The people standing in the processing facility aren't receiving cattle they've never seen before.

They raised them.

They know the ranch.

They know the pastures.

They know how the cattle were handled.

They know what they were fed.

They know where their water came from.

They know how they lived.

And when the time comes for processing, responsibility for that animal doesn't suddenly transfer to somebody hundreds of miles away.

The ranchers become the butchers.

That's continuity that's increasingly difficult to find in the modern food system.

AND THE CATTLE DON'T HAVE TO LEAVE HOME

This may be the part that matters most to us.

For many cattle, processing means transportation.

They have to be gathered.

Loaded.

Trucked away from familiar surroundings.

Unloaded somewhere new.

And eventually moved through a processing environment they've never experienced before.

Transportation and unfamiliar handling are recognized livestock stressors, which is one reason cattle-handling guidance emphasizes calm movement, good facility design and minimizing unnecessary stress.

At Falula Farm, that final trip is dramatically different.

There isn't one.

The cattle don't have to be loaded onto a semi and hauled hours away to a distant slaughter facility.

The processing facility is right there.

On the ranch they already know.

For a business built around the belief that the animal's entire life matters, that isn't a small detail.

It's one of the biggest reasons this model matters to us.

ONE ANIMAL AT A TIME

Building a processing facility on the ranch also allowed Falula Farm to make another unusual choice.

One animal at a time.

No mass production.

No conveyor belts.

No enormous stream of cattle arriving from different places.

One animal.

Processed individually.

That's fundamentally different from the scale at which much of America's beef is processed.

USDA data show that cattle slaughter is highly concentrated among relatively large establishments. In USDA's most recent detailed concentration analysis, plants slaughtering at least one million cattle annually accounted for more than half of U.S. cattle slaughter.

That doesn't mean large processing plants automatically produce bad beef.

And small doesn't automatically mean better.

They're simply very different systems.

Falula Farm deliberately chose the smaller one.

THEN THEY ADDED USDA INSPECTION

There's another important part of this story.

This isn't simply a private butcher shop on somebody's ranch.

The facility operates under USDA inspection.

Federal meat inspection brings an entirely separate layer of requirements involving the animals, carcasses, sanitation, food-safety systems, recordkeeping and processing operations. USDA inspection personnel verify that federally inspected establishments comply with applicable food-safety regulations.

That's important because small-scale and USDA-inspected aren't opposites.

Neither are local and federally regulated.

Falula Farm built a model that allows both to exist in the same place.

Small enough to process one animal at a time.

Structured to operate under USDA inspection.

We're going to dig much deeper into exactly what "USDA Inspected" means in another Beef Report because that little inspection mark has a much bigger story behind it than most people realize.

But for this story, the important part is simple:

They didn't have to give up control of the process in order to have federal inspection.

They brought federal inspection to the ranch.

THINK ABOUT HOW SHORT THAT JOURNEY IS

This is where the whole thing comes together.

An animal can be born at Falula Farm.

Raised there.

Graze the ranch's pastures.

Drink its spring water.

Spend its life under the care of the ranching family.

And when the time comes, it can be processed on that same ranch by members of that same family.

Then the beef is aged.

Hand-cut.

Vacuum sealed.

Labeled.

And frozen.

That's an extraordinarily short supply chain.

Not necessarily in miles from Utah to your dinner table.

In hands.

There simply aren't very many of them.

THERE'S SOMETHING ELSE THIS MAKES POSSIBLE

Traceability.

We've talked a lot about traceability in The Beef Report because it's one of those words that sounds boring until you think about what it actually means.

Can you trace your beef back to the animal?

Not just the processing company.

Not just a lot number.

Not just a state.

The animal.

When cattle from many different sources move through a large supply chain, maintaining individual identity all the way to a finished package becomes much more complicated.

At Falula Farm, the system is intentionally small.

One animal at a time.

That allows the beef from an individual animal to remain identifiable throughout processing rather than becoming part of a massive production batch.

It's one of the reasons we can tell you something most packages of beef can't:

We know where this beef came from.

HERE'S WHAT WE'RE QUESTIONING

When did knowing your butcher become unusual?

For generations, food systems were much more local.

The person raising an animal might know the person processing it.

The butcher might know the farmer.

The customer might know both.

Modern agriculture has allowed us to feed an enormous population with remarkable efficiency.

But somewhere along the way, we've also created a lot of distance between the person eating the food and the people responsible for producing it.

Falula Farm isn't trying to recreate agriculture from 100 years ago.

They're using modern equipment.

Modern refrigeration.

Modern food-safety systems.

Vacuum packaging.

USDA inspection.

But they're combining those things with something decidedly old-fashioned.

Personal responsibility for the animal from beginning to end.

We think there's something worth preserving in that.

FOURTH GENERATION. FIFTH GENERATION. SAME RANCH.

There's another part of this story that makes it bigger than a processing facility.

This is a father and son.

A fourth-generation rancher and a fifth-generation rancher.

They're working the same land.

Raising cattle.

Learning another trade together.

Building something that didn't exist before.

And creating an operation the next generation can continue.

That's how a family ranch survives another generation.

Not by refusing to change.

Sometimes it survives because somebody is willing to learn something completely new.

In this case, they didn't just learn it.

They built it.

THE BEEF REPORT BOTTOM LINE

A lot happens between a cow standing in a pasture and a steak sitting on your plate.

Usually, different people handle different pieces of that journey.

The rancher raises the animal.

Someone transports it.

Someone else processes it.

Another company cuts or packages the beef.

Eventually somebody sells it.

At Falula Farm, that chain looks very different.

The ranchers raise the cattle.

The ranchers built the processing facility.

The ranchers became professional butchers.

And the cattle are processed on the same ranch where they were raised.

One animal at a time.

Under USDA inspection.

From the pasture to the processing room, responsibility for that animal stays remarkably close to the people who raised it.

And maybe that's the most important part of this entire story.

The cattle never have to leave the ranch.

Neither does the responsibility for how they're treated.

SOURCES & FURTHER READING

USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service — Inspection of Meat Products
USDA explains the federal meat inspection system, including the requirement that commercially sold meat be inspected and passed and the role of FSIS in inspecting livestock slaughter and meat processing. This supports the article's discussion of what it means for Falula Farm's processing facility to operate under USDA inspection. 
Read USDA's overview of meat inspection
USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service — HACCP Guidance
USDA explains the Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point system used in federally inspected meat establishments to identify and control food-safety hazards. This provides context for the food-safety systems and regulatory requirements involved in operating a USDA-inspected beef processing facility. 
Read USDA's HACCP guidance
USDA Economic Research Service — Concentration in U.S. Meatpacking Industry and How It Affects Competition and Cattle Prices
USDA documents how dramatically beef processing has consolidated and how large modern packing plants have become. The agency reports that the four largest beef packers handle about 85% of steer and heifer purchases, while the average beef plant owned by one of the four largest firms grew from about 417,000 cattle in 1980 to more than one million by 2002. This provides context for just how different a small, one-animal-at-a-time processing model is from much of the modern beef-processing industry. 
Read USDA's report on concentration in U.S. meatpacking
USDA National Agricultural Library — Animal Transportation
USDA's National Agricultural Library identifies transportation as a potential major stressor for animals and emphasizes the importance of minimizing distress during transport. USDA Agricultural Research Service research has also examined stress associated with cattle loading, unloading and transportation. This supports the article's discussion of why eliminating the final trip to a distant processing facility can matter from an animal-handling perspective. 
Read USDA's Animal Transportation resources